AN MSU JEWEL IS REVEALED

Mahasarakham University is lucky enough to have two campuses, obviously differentiated by naming one the “old” campus and the other the “new”’ campus. I will not go into the history of the old campus but there is one small part of it which is of great interest to me. I am lucky enough to be timetabled a class on Mondays and Tuesdays at the old campus.

I catch two mini-buses (when they decide to stop for me) to get there or walk from Takisila dormitory to the back entrance of the old campus where I am always given a lift by someone to the front gate where my classes are held. There is something about the old campus I like very much and it must have something to do with its history (or maybe the cute little flying glider with the furry tail I saw from the window on the stairs). I think there are plans to move everything to the new campus and personally I think it a bit sad although the new campus will probably have developed much more historical character by the time this move occurs. However; I digress.

Across the road from the building where I take classes the yellow mini-buses and their drivers stop before the return journey to the new campus. There is a big old tree which is perfectly positioned to create shade for four or more mini-buses and their drivers. This is not just any old tree, it is a special tree, for within its elegantly drooping willow like branches is a place which I have yet to define.

The tree is very old (nobody can tell me HOW old) and even though it looks like a stand of trees it is only one tree. I am assuming it is a Rajaphreuk (Cassia ) tree, which is the representative tree of Mahasarakham University. The yellow flowers represent Thai Royalty and are the national flower of Thailand. For a little trivia it is also the State flower of Kerala in the south of India.

I also know it creates a wonderful welcoming cool shade under the hot Mahasarakham sun and makes the at times very tedious wait for the mini bus to move off a rare enjoyable experience.

Looking from the balcony of the classroom you cannot see the singular paved pathway leading into the centre of the tree. To enter here is to walk into a different world for here you find what some would describe as a temple but I choose to describe as a house for a very good reason.

Having done some research on Isan culture I will risk an attempt to describe the background or reason for this house being situated in the middle of this particular tree in the grounds of the old campus.

Many westerners assume Therevada Buddhism is and has been for what seems forever the predominant form of worship (for want of a better word) in the north east of Thailand. It does not exist alone. Perhaps even before the good Lord Buddha left his indelible print on Isan people there existed a form of animism worship with the two existing quite harmoniously (see Animism in Laos ).

The practitioners of animism have a belief in the existence of spirits called Phi and this is where the reference to a house comes in. Within this house in the middle of the tree is a Phi; a spirit who looks over the welfare and fortune of the old Mahasarakham Uni campus and all those who abide there.

In order for good luck and good fortune to continue within the old campus offerings are made to the spirit living within the house. Here is where I get a little confused with conflicting information. On one hand the spirit is simply a spirit (sort of like Khun = "you" which can imply any spirit). My preference is for the spirit to be that of someone well respected who has performed great service, passed away and been given the respect of having the house built. Food, drink and decorative offerings which are presented perpetually show respect as well as jai dee (care or good heart) for the well being of the spirit. In return the spirit keeps bad spirits away and ensures the safety and good fortune of those attending the old campus at Mahasarakham University.

An observation, if I may be so bold, is that the offerings do not seem to be made for selfish reasons, more for the well being and as a token of respect for another (the Phi residing in the little house). It is one example of the invisible glue binding Isan people together. No-one really talks about it; there is no big hoo-ha or pomp and circumstance; it is simply a natural part of their life.

I feel people are not forced to participate, it is deep within Isan culture as, I repeat, a natural thing which seems to have been occurring forever. I find difficulty in presenting any argument how the penetration of globalisation would have any effect and I cannot really see any signs of it ever disappearing. Perhaps I have presented an argument for the opposite.

I have not made an offering to the Phi of the old campus at MSU yet, although perhaps if I do I may be given the good fortune of a gift of a better understanding of the small house in the middle of the Cassia tree where I wait for the mini bus.
I have gained a little understanding. My last paragraph put my desires before the well being of the spirit in the little house. I need to ponder more on this subject. I know the perfect place in which to do it.

HOMESICK ON CHRISTMAS EVE?

December 24

‘Twas the day before Christmas and Micael was worried......
Missing his family ......... the roast pork and cabbage
But I am with Isan......no need to be flurried
My friends pick me up.......there's no need to pack baggage
And no time to be lonely ..... unhappy or blue
The school’s having a party ......... “No homesick for You!!!”

I was thinking of the poem about the mouse and the quiet and the day before Christmas and what I would do for the day. Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are working days in Thailand and there had been none of the hype I am used to experiencing at home in Wollongong leading up to Christmas. Sure, there were a few Christmas trees, elaborate and beautiful; full of lights but understood by many Thais as only a marketing tool to make some money at Christmas.

I awoke wondering whether I would feel homesick on Christmas Eve .... silly boy! I am in the middle of Isan. Isan people do not let you feel lonely.

My mobile rang early (6 am) and my good schoolteacher friends Aoy and Tookie invited me to their school to see a small celebration at which Aoy’s daughter was participating as a marching girl.

“OK”; I said. Shower, dress ... toot toot and into the car for Borabu.

We picked up Aoy’s daughter and her 2 marching girl friends and drove to the middle of a village somewhere (I never get used to this... ) where at first glance I saw a couple of kids dressed up, a bit of a school drum band and some more kids with banners. Remember, I have no idea where I am!!!

Aoy and Tookta disappeared, reappeared and, seizing the opportunity I asked my usual question; “What do I do?”“Follow the children”; was the short retort and I was on my own again.

OK........

......follow them ........

......... where???

The drums starting beating: schoolkids love banging drums and so I did as I was told and followed along the narrow village street. Look! More children up ahead – time for photos..... and more drums .. and more marching girls ... and more children !! I went along a bit until my leg tired and I started limping. A schoolchild stopped his motor cycle and offered me a lift; typical of the jai dee all Isan people show me.

The procession wound it’s way through the streets of the village for perhaps 4 kilometres withparents, uncles, aunties, mothers, grandmothers (you get the idea) lining the sides of the narrow village avenues smiling and clapping the children and saying hello to the novelty of the farang.

How to describe the procession?? Three kilometres long of marching girls being led by children dressed in traditional Isan garb with a drum band to keep time, some soccer teams and volleyball teams and then more of the same, all proceeding along the village lanes proudly watched by the whole village who turn out to watch them pass by.

This is a feeling of community spirit that is repeated at the same time all over Isan. EVERYBODY participates in some way, not because they have to, because they WANT to.

Off to the school sportsground for a grand parade and march past; the ever present VERY loud PA system producing continuous commentary on the procession and sporting events throughout the day. The loud PA seems a bit much at first although it is easy to become accustomed to and really lends excitement to the day.

The assembly was impressive once they all arrived.

The march past was lots of fun to watch - the girls really stepped out in style for the appreciative crowd.

Something I really enjoyed was the sense of having competitions where the emphasis was on participation instead of individual achievement. I positioned myself close to the cold water and coffee, as you do at such events, situated just behind a trophy table which display ed a selection of magnificent trophies.
I did not notice any of the children during my time there come to the table to admire the trophies. I certainly did.

I may be wrong although from what I saw the emphasis was not on individualism as opposed to participation. There were no tantrums noticeable if a child lost a race or did not perform well. Teams were happy to win their games and teams that lost were smiling also. I think they were all their to have some fun making all participants winners.
The young girls passing the trophies to the presenters wore traditional Isan silk..... how they managed to look so fresh all day is a secret I would like to have shared.

It is just one small example of the rich culture and sense of wholehearted ISAN community spirit. I am not made to feel like an outsider; friend and stranger alike make me feel welcome, as if I have an open invitation to join in as a part of the community where I am treated as one of their own. Toyota has nothing on this feeling!!

Lunch was provided by the school and everybody joined in together. The picture at right is of a part of the kitchen.
Food does not get much fresher than what is provided in Thailand.
I have been here since November 1 and the only tin I have opened is the one containing the shoe polish. Oh! Did I mention it hasn't rained either but there is still plenty of water about.

Volleyball,
soccer volleyball,
soccer,
foot races,
relays,

lawn bowls on a gravel rink with
steel bowls

and we'll have a measure on

that one

and plenty of water and shade provided for everyone.

Even a little fat farang man showed up to bring some extra entertainment and to join in the festivities.

I made many, many new friends that day.

More importantly I was once again treated to a hospitality from the Isan people which I have never experienced in any western culture.

I am not saying it is better, I am saying it is something which keeps me smiling every day here in Thailand

I did not forget about my family home in Australia on Christmas Eve, but definitely

...... "No time to be lonely
..... or homesick or blue
The school’s having a party
......... “No homesick for You!!!

PS. My good friends surprised me with Christmas decorations, a Christmas tree and a small party after the day’s festivities ...... more Isan jai dee !!!!

Thanks Tookie..Thanks Aoy ... Thanks Eve ... you are in my heart forever.